Up On a Roof

Last November, I arrived in Milan, a place I’d never visited, with only one afternoon to get acquainted with the city before flying home to Finland the next morning. Despite the time limitation, I was still able to cross one more item off my travel bucket list: a visit to the Milan’s Duomo, also known as the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Nativity. Ever since seeing photos of the church’s Gothic exterior with its delicate lacy spires reaching up toward the heavens, I’d wanted to stand outside in awe. Little did I know that I would be getting a more interactive, immersive experience.

When I ordered tickets online (https://ticket.duomomilano.it/en/categoria/biglietti/) there was an option to visit the rooftop terraces, which I had assumed was a quick panoramic stop after a long elevator ride up. One option was to walk all 265 steps up (16/8 euros, but not recommended, as they are steep) and the other was the lift (22/11 euros). When the elevator opened at about 150 feet, I was overwhelmed by the enormity of expanse and amazed that such an important landmark was open to the public.

Construction on the Duomo was begun in 1386 on the site of a 4th-century church that had burned down in 1075. Almost six hundred years elapsed from the start of construction until its completion in 1965 with 76 architects and engineers overseeing the project during that time span. Perhaps this inspired the Italian expression, “è come la fabbrica del Duomo,” which refers to projects that take a very long time to finish.

The ethnic backgrounds of the architects greatly influenced the styles with the French aiming for a Gothic look, while in the 15th century, a Renaissance appearance was preferable because it was considered more Italian and less foreign. The one constant that remained throughout the centuries was the use of marble from the Candoglia quarry in Piedmont, which still provides the materials but now transports them by road, not waterway. The stone emits a pinkish hue which adds to the ethereal glow of the cathedral.

The final product with its contrasting styles has inspired both admiration and scorn. In his travel book Innocents Abroad, Mark Twain wrote: “What a wonder it is! So grand, so solemn, so vast! And yet so delicate, so airy, so graceful! A very world of solid weight, and yet it seems … a delusion of frostwork that might vanish with a breath!”

Oscar Wilde, however, was no fan, finding the Cathedral “an awful failure” with “monstrous” exterior design. “Everything is vile in it…” he said.

Heavens! My impressions are aligned with Mr. Twain’s. Yes, the Duomo is a mishmash of designs, but that’s what makes it unique—all the elements combine to create a masterpiece of grace and great beauty.

Once up on the roof, my husband and I spent two hours in the waning light, exploring every nook and cranny and taking in the panoramic views of the city below. Although I usually suffer from a fear of heights, I didn’t feel in the least bit uncomfortable, as we were surrounded in every direction by protective spires and flying buttresses.

At 109 feet, the highest spire is Madonnina, or Little Madonna, which is comprised of 3,999 pieces of gold. Out of respect to the Mother of Jesus, there is an unspoken rule that no building in Milan should surpass its height. Other real-life-sized figures of saints and martyrs stand atop the other spires, including one of “Saint” Napoleon, who had ordered the cathedral to be finished in time for his coronation as King of Italy in 1805.

In 2012, the Duomo administration launched a fundraising campaign to raise 25 million euros for restoration of the spires. For as little as 50 euros, donors can adopt one of the 135 spires of Saints Cecilia, Jerome, Joan of Arc, and others, and receive a piece of marble with a certificate of donation. The cost of making a more lasting gift and having your name engraved on the spire is 100,000 euros. If you’re interested (most likely in the former offer!), you can read more here, as well as select your saint on a map: https://www.duomomilano.it/en/get-your-spire-the-project/

By the time we walked down the steps and returned to the piazza below, the sun had set and the Cathedral appeared to twinkle like a rose-colored jewel. I look forward to my next visit to Milano when I’ll allow more time to spend up on the roof, as well as the interior. Until then, Buona notte!