When I first saw the above photo, my initial reaction was: “Where is that and how do I get there?” My second was: “Yikes, look at all those steps!” Certainly, a deterrent, especially in hotter weather. One year ago, the ascent might not have seemed so daunting, but it had taken months to heal from abdominal surgery, during which maneuvering up and down stairs was uncomfortable, if not painful. I still moved gingerly.
An Italian friend of my husband Otto had highly recommended Tropea as a sunny escape from Finland’s long, dark winters. During my online research, I could see why websites and blogs touted this “Jewel of Calabria,” with its white sandy beaches, crystal clear waters, mouthwatering seafood, and ancient architecture. But a drawback appeared in most of the photos: the steps! They were everywhere and seemed unavoidable because the Old Town was built atop a cliff. (Small wonder, as legend has it that Hercules founded the town!) Since there are no hotels on the beach (only campsites), this meant going up and down at least 100 steps each way if I wanted to walk along the beach or swim. And I did.
As another March snowstorm hit Helsinki, forcing Otto and I inside, this alluring seaside paradise beckoned. How strenuous could it be? I wondered. We lived in a third floor walk-up so were used to at least 50 steps a day. I was still wearing my ice pick shoes when trudging to the grocery store to avoid slipping on the icy streets. Wouldn’t it be nicer to trade them in for sandals, even if temporarily? Sì!
I booked a flight to Rome for mid-April, and after two nights in the Eternal City, we took a high-speed train south to Tropea with a short stopover in Lamezia Terme, which also has an international airport. The journey took about six and a half hours, much of it spent glued to the windows as we passed by rugged cliffs, hilltop villages, olive groves, and endless expanses of pristine beaches. (For schedule and reservations: http://www.thetrainline.com. Book in advance for cheaper fares.)
Arriving in Tropea, we walked down a long slope to the Old Town that dead-ended in the panoramic view below. Eager to get down to the beach, we checked into our B&B, changed into shorts and T-shirts, and took the long, windy stone steps down to the sea, where we spent the afternoon walking in the surf and exploring different coves. The water was so clear I could see fish at my feet, which reminded me of the Caribbean, as did the fine white sand. The temperature was still a bit brisk for swimming, as it had rained the week before, but after the constant freezing temperatures in Finland, we had no complaints.
By the time we left around 6 p.m., the air was noticeably chilly. Time for the long haul up the stairs. I paced myself, stopping to admire the stunning views along the way and guzzle down bottled water. My reward was a pot of hot tea and a scoop of pistachio gelato at Café Paris. Afterward, Otto and I joined the crowds in watching the sunset over Stomboli, one of the seven Aeolian islands. Una vista bellissima!
The next morning was devoted to visiting the Sanctuaria di Santa Maria dell’Isola. Again, down the steps and climbing many more up the hill situated on its own island. The cathedral is quite small, but the main draw is the garden, full of cacti and plants, benches for meditation, and a 360-degree view of the sea and cliffside dwellings of the Old Town (view below). Spectacular!
Back down at the beach, we dipped in the sea, and by the time we left two days later, we were fully immersing. Unlike the Baltic, the Tyrrhenian Sea is very salty, making it possible to water jog without using a belt.
In addition to logging beach time, we also visited the 12th-century Norman-style Cathedral of the Virgin Mary of Romania, famous for its Byzantine icon. The local faithful believe that during the 17th-century, a boat carrying the sacred painting from the Eastern Roman Empire to Italy was struck by a storm. Despite the captain’s efforts to turn the ship around, it would not leave the harbor, perhaps fulfilling the dreams of Tropea’s bishop, Ambrogio Cordova, in which the Virgin Mary asked him repeatedly to keep and protect her in the village. Images of the icon (below) are found in many of the local shops and hotels.
At night, Otto and I dined on regional specialities, such as swordfish—a rare treat, as it isn’t native to Finland—and then danced with the locals at an outdoor folk concert. I would heartily recommend these two restaurants for their generous portions and ambience: Il Convivio (photo below) and Osteria Le Volpi e L’Uva. Dinner for two cost about 40 euros with water and dessert, but without alcohol. Both eateries are tucked away in cozy piazzi near the Cathedral, offering glimpses of local life with laundry hanging from balconies above us.
Tropea offers a wide variety of accommodations, and I recommend selecting one with a sea view and balcony, if possible. We stayed at B&B Rivellini, which included both, although the balcony was too small to accommodate a table and chairs. The breakfast offerings were very sugary with three delicious-looking cakes, but not what I could handle at 9 a.m. For 65 euros/night, however, this family-run accommodation, in close proximity to the sea and the Old Town, was a great deal. They are listed on http://www.booking.com.
Although we didn’t stay at Il Duca, it was situated with a direct view to the sea and Sanctuaria but was about double the price. La Locanda del Convento is adjacent to The Church of the Holy Rosary and offers spartan rooms and breathtaking views. Good to keep in mind for our next visit. And we will be back, steps and all. Even with all the climbing, the gorgeous panoramic views were well worth the effort.
Until then, Arrivederci, Tropea!
Another amazing journey! Fascinating. Thank you for sharing.